The North- Presolana

These are complex and demanding routes, with the exception of a few climbs: it is recommended to proceed only in good weather conditions, with appropriate equipment and solid technical preparation.

The most famous and accessible routes are the following:

  • 84. Via Castiglioni (north-west ridge): an elegant route with some exposed and very beautiful pitches, good rock quality, protected with pitons and easily protectable.
  • 82. Miss Mescalina: after Via Castiglioni, this is certainly the most frequently climbed route on this side. Nearly perfect rock and a complete re-bolting with fixed anchors in 2007 have made this route well-known and highly enjoyable. It climbs to the left of the ridge over slabs and bulges.
  • 68. Grande Grimpe: a classic route well equipped with pitons and bolts. It ascends the large wall with a slightly winding line and uneven difficulties. Rock quality is excellent throughout the entire route.
  • 71. A Garden for Gianmario: while maintaining an alpine style, it is the first route on the North face where bolts were used. After Miss Mescalina, it is certainly the most accessible, safely equipped with pitons, bolts, and threads. In autumn 2008, all the protection was checked; the rock ranges from good to excellent.
  • 75. Placido: dedicated to the award-winning Colere mountaineer, this line offers great satisfaction in both commitment and beauty. It climbs the large reddish shield set in the center of the north face. Protection is abundant, although sometimes not entirely reliable; all belays were reinforced with a bolt in summer 2007. Revisited in a modern style, thanks to excellent rock (except for the start) and consistently engaging difficulties, it offers unparalleled climbing.

Thanks to Maurizio Panseri and Versante Sud for granting permission to use the image. Detailed route descriptions of the climbs on the NORTH FACE of PRESOLANA OCCIDENTALE can be found in the guidebook “BERGAMO VALLEYS – Crags and Modern Routes” by Yuri Parimbelli and Maurizio Panseri – Versante Sud Editions https://www.versantesud.it/shop/valli-bergamasche/

Climbing information

  • Useful months: , Maggio, Giugno, Luglio, Agosto, Settembre, Ottobre

Access: Starting from Colere, you can reach the Albani Refuge (a base for climbs on this side) in about two hours on foot or, more comfortably, by chairlift to Cima Bianca and then 20-30 minutes to the refuge or directly to the walls in 40-45 minutes. To reach the walls, allow about 20/30 minutes on foot from the refuge: climb the grassy ridge above the mine huts, follow the tracks and cairns and head towards the north-west edge. Follow the path to the scree at the base of the wall. To reach the edge, climb the steep meadows; to reach the others, descend along the wall.